By David Setley
Next week we celebrate Independence Day, the most American of all holidays, and the 247th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence. Did you know that wine is produced in all 50 states? While I won’t attempt to make recommendations from all 50, allow me to offer suggestions “from sea to shining sea” so that you may enjoy a few American wines over the holiday weekend.
Let’s start on the east coast in Long Island, New York with a perfectly named wine for the season: Summer in a Bottle Long Island Rosé 2022 from Wolfer Estates. The NY wine is more copper colored than the popular Provence-style rosés with fruit notes of ripe pear and apple on the nose. The mouthfeel is rich with fine, smooth tannins. This rosé is comprised of grapes that are 48% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11.5% Chardonnay, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4.5% Riesling, 4% Petit Meunier, 4% Cayuga, and 4% Syrah. Impressive, right? There is acidity that adds the crisp freshness we look for in a good rosé, and I am a big fan of the minerality, light salinity, and long finish of this particular dry wine. It pairs perfectly with soft cheese, shellfish, chicken, pork, and grilled vegetable dishes. Additionally, Summer in a Bottle is perfect with spicy foods. It may be the perfect firecracker wine!
Also, on the east coast (and close to home for readers), southern New Jersey has a number of successful wineries that produce enjoyable wines. Kennedy Cellars Winery of Hammonton offers a Bordeaux-style Red Blend that is equal portions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It is a rich, smooth, medium-bodied, dry red wine with the flavors of ripe cherries and black currents. It would pair well with anything from grilled steaks and burgers to lamb. It is a good one to try if you’d like to celebrate with a local wine this weekend.
Beginning our trek west, let’s visit Hillick and Hobbs Winery on Seneca Lake, New York. Owned by Paul Hobbs, the international wine visionary called “The Steve Jobs of Wine” by Forbes Magazine, Hillick and Hobbs Winery is named in honor of his parents, who met at Cornell University and raised him on a farm in upstate NY. Only one varietal is grown and produced at the winery: Riesling. Hobbs believes that the terroir of the Finger Lakes region is perfect for Rieslings, and I must say that the Hillick and Hobbs 2021 Dry Riesling perfectly demonstrates his belief. The grapes are hand-harvested, whole-cluster pressed, and 100% fermented and aged in stainless steel. The result is a floral aroma with flavors of pear and citrus, and the minerality of crushed rock. The long finish is extended by crisp acidity. Many of Hobbs’ wines can be expensive, but this one is quite reasonably priced. If you haven’t enjoyed the work of this outstanding winemaker, start with this Dry Riesling.
As we head much further west, I’d like to recommend a wine from a state that you may not expect. My wife, Gwen, was in search of a sparkling wine for her entry to one of Passion Vines’ monthly Open that Bottle Night events awhile back. In browsing the shelves, we found a Gruet sparkling wine that was made in the Methode Champenois, the traditional double fermentation process utilized in Champagne, France. The Gruet Blanc de Blanc has earned high praise from Wine Spectator, among other wine sources, and is a brut sparkling wine made from Chardonnay grapes. I was amazed at the yeasty brioche aroma and crisp tropical flavors of this wine. Where was it from, you ask? New Mexico, where my wife grew up (which cinched her decision in choosing it for the event). Everyone at the event thoroughly enjoyed it. If you are looking for a sparkling wine to toast our nation’s birthday, consider this offering from New Mexico. You won’t be disappointed.
The Pacific Northwest is our next stop. The Willamette Valley of Oregon has become famous, and rightly so, for excellent Pinot Noirs. My favorite Oregon winery is Montinore Estates, and their 2019 Montinore Estate Reserve Pinot Noir is why. The winemaker selects the best Pinot Noir grapes from each of the estate vineyards and blends them in this wine to represent the best of the best from that year. The 2019 vintage has well-structured tannins and the lovely acidity that this varietal is known for. The aroma highlights cedar wood and forest floor while the pallet is ripe cherries and baking spices. In my opinion, this is the best Pinot Noir produced in the US.
California is our final stop on this all-American wine tour. You are likely familiar with great Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, Chardonnays, and Zinfandels produced in the state, but have you tried a Petite Sirah? I would argue that California does Petite Sirah better than any other location. The terroir of the Paso Robles region is ideal, and the 2020 J. Lohr Tower Road Petite Sirah is one of the best examples. This wine is hand-harvested and barrel-aged in French oak for 18 months before bottling. It is the perfect wine for grilling season and pairs well with any grilled vegetables or meats. The tannins are rich, but smooth. The bold flavors are blackberries, plum, and cranberry with notes of leather, chocolate, and a touch of oak. In my opinion, this may be the perfect summer red.
Celebrate our nation with one or more of these reds or whites; I promise you won’t be blue. As always, contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the store. Until next time, happy birthday, America! And Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
