Drink Up with
David Setley
Cinco de Mayo (May 5) is the date that commemorates Mexico’s victory over the French at the Battle of Puebla in the Franco-Mexican war in 1862. This date has become an annual celebration of Mexican culture and heritage. Here’s a fun wine fact for you: wine grapes grow well in the Northern and Southern hemispheres between the latitudes of 30 and 50 degrees. If you look at a map, only the northern portion of the Baja California Peninsula is located within this range, with much of the rest of Mexico located south. As such, the Baja California Peninsula is where nearly 75% of Mexican wine is produced, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petite Sirah. However, relatively few of these wines make it to the United States. Although many people who celebrate Cinco de Mayo might reach for beer or tequila, for those of us who enjoy celebrating with wine, let’s consider wine from some alternative locales that pair well with typical Cinco de Mayo menus.
Tacos, in all of their variations, are one of the more dominant Mexican dish served in America. Filling options may be chicken, beef (Carne Asada), chorizo or pork, or even combinations of mushrooms, vegetables, or tofu. If your choice is chicken, Portugal offers a great wine from the Alentejo region that pairs well. Fitapreta Branco 2021 is a blend of indigenous white grapes, including Arinto de Bucelas and Roupeiro. It is crisp and fresh with excellent minerality and the flavors of honeycomb and stone fruit. Or, if you prefer to order Carne Asada, the bold, yet smooth, Can Blau 2020 Red Blend from the Montsant region of Spain is a perfect pairing. Earthiness is a dominant characteristic of Spanish wines and this delicious red, made from Manzuelo grapes grown in the region, is no exception. The aroma and flavor of smoke, oak, vanilla and dark red fruit will match well with beef. Chorizo, a cured, smoked, pork-based meat, originated in the Iberian Peninsula, where the Garnacha grape also originated. As such, it is not surprising that wine made from Garnacha is a perfect pairing with the distinctive flavors and seasonings of Chorizo. The Galerna Garnach from Castilla, Spain is a perfect choice for Chorizo tacos. My wife and I are taking a plant-based approach to eating as of late, and will be filling our Cinco de Mayo tacos with veggies and/or tofu. My wine of choice is the Touriga Vai Nua (Unoaked) from Alentejo, Portugal. Touriga Nacional is the unofficial national grape of Portugal. This wonderful dry red wine has flavors of cherry and raspberry, along with notes of black pepper, mint and licorice that will complement our meal perfectly.
Perhaps you’re planning on enchiladas, rather than tacos. Enchiladas may be ordered either Rojas (red) or Verde (green). If you will be enjoying the red version, consider a wonderful Spanish Tempranillo, such as the Cune Tempranillo Reserva from Rioja. This region commonly uses American oak barrels for aging. The Tempranillo is a classic Spanish varietal that has the fruit flavor of black plums and the earthiness of baking spices and vanilla, along with notes of oak that pair well with red enchiladas. Personally though, I love green enchiladas. The light citrus flavor that comes from the tomatillos pairs perfectly with Albarino wine, the pride of the Rias Baixas region of Spain. This crisp, refreshing white wine has well-balanced flavors of apricot, pear, and citrus, along with the minerality of stones and salinity. Perfect for green enchiladas!
Another of my favorite dishes from our local Mexican restaurants are the wonderfully cheesy Chile Rellenos. Poblano peppers coated in egg batter and stuffed with cheese…what’s not to like? A wine grape that can stand up to this cheesy goodness is the Alicante Bouschet from the southeastern regions of Portugal. The Cartuxa Tinto is perfect for the job as a medium-bodied dry wine, with medium tannins and an incredibly soft and drinkable style. The fruit flavors of plum and black raspberry are present, but the earthiness of leather and smoke complement Chile Rellenos perfectly.
If you are not one to indulge in Mexican foods, I am willing to bet nearly everyone has had or made nachos. Crispy tortilla chips with melted cheese, salsa, jalapenos, guacamole and an array of other accoutrements can be an appetizer or a full entrée. The perfect pairing with Nachos is cava, a sparkling wine from Cava, Spain. Cava is to Spain what Prosecco is to Italy. The Naveran Cava Vintage Brut is my pick. This cava is made from Parellada grapes and is nicely effervescent with a medium-plus level of acidity and a very smooth and drinkable taste. The flavor is green apple and citrus with a touch of classic brioche yeastiness. Nachos and cava are the perfect start to your Cinco de Mayo festivities.
I hope these recommendations enhance your celebrations. As always, if you have any questions or comments, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the Somers Point store. Until next time, Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.